Rishikesh Part 1: Feb 15 - Feb 27

Sitting in my cozy candlelit apartment to write this post, loving the feeling of having a place to call home for the next month. Bactrack to my post-travels arrival in Rishikesh...

Of course, my first destination (after a little unpacking and a much needed shower) was Swati's. As always, we were both very happy to see each other and catch up on the past year of our lives. Her daughter, Arna, who was just a couple months old last time I was here, is now a lively little girl, quite possibly one of the happiest I've ever seen! She is full of animation and curiosity and smiles, a joy to be around. Next stop was Ganesh's roadside cart, my favorite chai-wallah. Then I did the rounds, popping into a few shops and saying to hi to those friendly familiar faces.

The following morning I made my way over to the neighbouring town of Laxmanjula for satsang with Prem Baba. Five years later, I still can't quite explain what happens to me in that hall, but the feeling is exquisite. The live musicians move me to tears every time, with the sublime sounds of their voices and instruments. And when Prem Baba speaks, the love circulating in the room is palpable, and I find myself involuntarily bringing both hands over my heart, pressing firmly, as if to keep it from bursting right out of my chest.

A little less emotionally intense, but significantly more physically intense are my morning Iyengar classes with Ashish, favorite teacher in town. He even agreed to teach private classes for the group I'll be bringing to India next year! Spent my first Friday night here at Children of the Ganges, the school for underprivileged kids where Swati teaches. Dropped off the donations I had lugged over from Canada (thanks again Melina, Robin, Lyne, Amanda, Mandi and Meera!) and helped correct a few English assignments in prepararion for their state public school exams this week. Next time I go we'll be able to celebrate with some fun and games.

Been spending quite a bit of time with my friend Julia from back home, who is here until March 10th. We share a common interest for all things spiritual and astrological, so have of course been enjoying each other's company here in the land of all that good stuff! It's her first trip to India, and she's already planning her second :)

Went to see Dr. Srivastava, a renowned ayuvedic physician who even treats Mooji and Prem Baba. Went in feeling great, as I usually do in India, but came out with a pretty hefty assortment of brightly colored herbal pills and little custom-prepared powder packets. He read my wrist pulse, and in 10 minutes gave me an impressively precise and accurate diagnosis. So as healthy as I may feel, it seems there are a few things that need tending to in order to uncover truly optimal well-being.

February 24th was the day of Maha Shivaratri, annual celebration of Shiva, beloved Hindu god of yoga and meditation. The majority of Indians fast on this day, and in the evening go down to the Ganga for a river puja (also a very auspicious day to bathe in the holy water), then go participate in temple ceremonies late into the night. Some years I'm more traditional than others, but this wasn't one of them, as I did none of those things. Julia and I met up with Eric and Anna for dinner, a couple friends of ours who had just arrived in Rishikesh. After a delicious meal at Pyramid Café, I made my way over to Prem Baba's hall, where there whould be Shiva chants until the wee hours of the morning. Got back to my room at 2am, which I think officially makes that my latest night out in India.

Spent most of Sunday in Rishikesh market with Swati and Julia, stopping for a delicious lunch at Swati's mom's in town. I was mainly shopping for things for my new apartment - yup, an actual 3 1/2 apartment! Spent my first 10 days here at a great guesthouse that Swati was able to pull some strings to reserve for me before my arrival, but then on the day of Shivaratri, I moved to this great apartment owned by Swati's parents-in-law. (And it's for sale... I'm tempted!) It's a little ways out from the main hub of westerners and teacher trainees, where it's more calm and quiet, and my neigbours are lovely lively Indian families. There's a fantastic rooftop from where I can watch the sunset over Rishikesh, and a wooded area just outside my ground floor apartment. I'm just loving it, here for the next month, and really making it feel homey.

Yesterday, I discovered a magical new spot thanks to Eric and Anna. The four of us (with Julia) took a cab 40 min out of town, heading north towards the mountains. Destination: the "Jesus cave." A place he apparently spent months, if not years, meditating in this cave, during a period of disappearance in the story of his life when his whereabouts were unknown. The location is exquisite, just by the Ganges, surrounded by mountains, and sitting to meditate in the dark, moist cave itself was an indescribable feeling.

That's all for now, Rishikesh Part 2 coming up next week.

Today's closing quote is from Paramahansa Yogananda:

"Seek to do brave and lovely things that are left undone by the majority of people. Give gifts of love and peace to those whom others pass by."

Travels - Part 2: Metros, Trains & Tuk-tuks

Took off from Montreal during a snow storm, from Doha under the pouring rain, and landed in Delhi through thick smog. Was looking foward to the sunny blue skies and fresh air of Rishikesh. Super quick airport exit - 5min to get through customs, 5min at the luggage belt, then across the street to catch the metro to New Delhi. Things got a little less smooth when I exited at my stop. When I got outside and looked around, I didn't recognize anything. Strange. I've taken that metro before, but usually go straight to the train station (staying a day in Delhi this time). My guesthouse should have been a quick 10min walk from the metro stop, but it seems I wasn't at the stop I was expecting to be at, and I ended up walking around in circles for about 20 min, getting conflicting directions from everyone I asked. Hot and tired, I finally gave up the search and got a tuk-tuk. Of course, he over-charged, but I just wanted to get to my room for a shower and a nap, so I didn't argue for too long over the extra dollar. Was settled into my room at RAK Hotel (where I've always stayed in Delhi - ordinary rooms, but extraordinary staff) by 11am. Had a few little errands to run on Main Bazaar, the central street of Paharganj, backpacker district, after which I could relax and recup from long, sleepless travels. Out for a quick bite at my regualr spot, the organic Brown Bread Bakery (always best to start off with some not too exotic food!), then back to my room for some repacking and prepping for the next day's early morning train to Haridwar. Got a few solid hours of sleep, and probably would have managed a full night if it weren't for the barking dogs I awoke to shortly after 4am. Walked to the train station at 6am, in the pre-dawn calm and darkness that I love, and was in my seat for departure at 6:40. The 5 hour ride from Delhi to Rishikesh is always one that I thoroughly enjoy, listening to my music and watching the Indian scenery go by. From the Haridwar train station I walk across the street to catch a rickety old bus to Rishikesh - 40min, 35 rupees (70 cents). Then comes the moment I dread, when I get off the bus and am swarmed by a crowd of tuk-tuk drivers, all wanting to be chosen for the ride to Ramjula (precisely here that my foot got run over last year). So I was momentarily pleasantly surprised when I walked down the steps from the bus, and the swarm didn't happen. But as I looked around, I realized that the reason there were no tuk-tuk drivers waiting around for customers, was that there were no... tuk-tuks! Hmmm, this is bizarre. Ok, so I'll start walking, I thought. The main road where I would surely be able to catch one was about a 10min walk away. Manageable. But when I reached it, still no tuk-tuks in sight. Very strange. So I start walking along the main road, but I know that with the heat and the weight of my 4 pieces of luggage, I'll never make it to my destination, a good hour by foot. I did see a couple tuk-tuks drive by, but they were either full or not stopping. Walked for another 20min or so, and was just about to stop for a rest on the side of the road when I finally heard one slow down beside me. He knew rides were hard to come by today (the reason for which I would later find out from Swati, was that it was election day and therefore a holiday, so many drivers not working) and used the opporunity to hike his price. I managed to reason with him a little, I knew it was a short drive to where I was going, but would have paid quadruple if he had insisted. Once at the taxi drop off area, I still had a 20min walk to my guest house, across the pedestrian bridge and up the hill. At last, I arrived, and despite my exhaustion, was thrilled to be back "home".

Highlights from my first week here coming up next.

Until then, a few words from Kahlil Gibran:

"All things in this creation exist within you, and all things in you exist in creation; there is no border between you and the closest things, and there is no distance between you and the farthest things, and all things, from the lowest to the loftiest, from the smallest to the greatest, are within you as equal things."

Travels - Part 1: Planes, trains & tuk-tuks

Yet another Indian adventure begins! As per usual, the departure was a chaotic frenzy. Every year I swear to never again leave my preparations so last minute - i.e. laundry, cleaning and packing on Sunday afternoon, when I have to leave for the airport at 7pm. But every year, that's exactly what I'm doing. Maybe 6th time's a charm, here's hoping.

Thought the snow storm might help me out by delaying my flight, but checked online, and no such luck (yet grateful that it wasn't cancelled!). So my dad gets me to the airport as quickly/safely as possible, and when I get to the check-in counter the lady says, "Ma'am, you are very late. Passport please, quickly!" She takes my two check-in bags, looks at her screen, and says, "Ma'am, plane is boarding, run!" So I hurry to the security entrance, wait in line a few minutes, throw my carry-ons onto the belt, walk through the scan - beeeeeep! I look questioningly at the security lady, as I have nothing on me that could possibly set off the alarm, and she explains that I've been randomly selected for a more thorough examination. Great. I ask if she can please proceed quickly, as my plane is boarding, which she kindly does. Once through security, I grab hold of my backpack and purse straps, and start sprinting towards Gate 52, which of course is at the other end of the terminal. I ran for what felt like a kilometer, before finally reaching my gate, panting and sweating, only to see everyone still comfortably seated in the waiting area. Not sure where the check-in lady got her information, but clearly my flight was delayed afterall. Sat down, caught my breath, and repacked my carry-ons, which had been quite haphazardly filled in the departure rush. Boarding was delayed about half an hour, then we sat on the plane without moving for an hour and a half - waiting for our turn at the de-icer (I don't know whether it was an attempt to get a head start on the melting process, but it was about 100 degrees on the plan. They kept having to come around with trays of ice cold water for people on the verge of passing out). After 20 minutes at the ice&snow removal station, and another 20 waiting our turn for the take-off strip, we were in the air at last. Twelve hours and only a few brief moments of sleep later, we were landing in Doha. Due to our significantly delayed departure, we were landing almost 3 hours late, which had people with closely connecting flights in quite a panic (my layover was scheduled to last 9 hours, so I was fine, with still 6 to go). As soon as the plane slowed down at the end of the runway, half the passengers jumped out of their seats, and stared opening the overhead compartents, reaching for their carry-ons. Anyone who's ever been on a plane knows that this ain't the way it works. The plane must be fully stopped, and parked at the gate with the seatbelt signs off. The poor flight attendants were trying to get everyone to sit back down with frantic hand motions and the captain kept asking over the intercom for people to please wait patiently, but it was useless. They were determined to catch their next flight. (Though I wonder whether they realized that their current actions would do nothing to get them get there any sooner.) The girl at the security scan on the way into Hamad International Airport had heavy, tired eyes that were closed longer than they were open between blinks, and I got through with a full water bottle - that's not normal, is it? So much for heightened security. Had no problem keeping busy during my 6 hour wait, and though I didn't get a surprise first class upgrade this year, the flight from Doha to Delhi was smooth and pleasant. Had to laugh as I watched that little video they play as you take off about airplane emergency procedures - you know, the one no one ever pays attention to? Well it seems Qatar Airways has tried to encourage attentive viewing by hiring Qatari soccer stars and models for the "feature" roles. It was quite comical, and I have to say, it worked.

Ok, that's it for now. It's past 11pm and I need a good night's sleep before my morning yoga class with Ashish tomorrow. The rest of Week 1, Part 1 (trains & tuk-tuks) will have to wait. 

I leave you with a few words from Thursday's satsang with Prem Baba:

"We make our own plans, then God laughs about them. Open yourself to the wisdom of uncertainty."